Garage Forum may help
see these links
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350845
and
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350846
Saturday, January 21, 2017
Tuesday, January 17, 2017
Monday, January 16, 2017
Slab and Water Mitigation
We have to prevent water seeping through blocks if we build into the slope.
check this link
http://www.home-building-answers.com/slabs.html
check this link
http://www.home-building-answers.com/slabs.html
Breezeway
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2014/01/08/three-ways-for-breezeways
How long can a breezeway be?
A covered partially enclosed breezeway might have insurance implications.
Instead design a covered walkway.
How long can a breezeway be?
A covered partially enclosed breezeway might have insurance implications.
Instead design a covered walkway.
Potential Builders
Ryan,
Thanks so much for BOTH of your speedy replies. I appreciate this and feel it is promising about the work getting done as well J!
David (my husband) said we should meet with an architect first because there are some changes to make and he thinks that might influence bidding work that you would need to do.
Can I have you on hold for the time being? He is supposed to call them and get an appointment.
Jennifer
Freezer and Fridge
Oh, another item is a fridge. A mini fridge is cheap, and you can have cool drinks, etc. I'd also suggest a freezer for the downstairs. Once you have a dedicated freezer, you'll wonder how you ever lived without one. Buying in bulk and having it on hand is wonderful for things like meats, frozen veggies, etc. It frees up space in the indoor refrigerator freezer, which is so small, and you basically find that you're now walking upright. :)
Remember to have a beverage fridge upstairs
Remember to have a beverage fridge upstairs
Lighting
I'd go with led lighting. The fixtures in our hall, bathroom and closet are cheap, ($20), have the leds built in, (no replaceable bulb), but they're bright and pleasant. There's a wide array of products now, and they're cheap to run.
Upstairs Flooring
Oh, the flooring. I'd probably go with either cheap laminate or vinyl, with the laminate more likely.
consider stairs
consider stairs
Kiln and Electrical
Pick a spot where you would want to put a kiln, if you ever decide to, then have an empty conduit run from the electrical panel to that spot. Unless you go huge, a 3/4 conduit ought to be big enough, and it can be flexible plastic. That costs little, and lets you run wire whenever, of the appropriate size, with almost no additional labor cost. (you could do it yourself). Other than that, have at least 4 separate circuits for the wall plugs. 6 would be even better. Costs a little more up front, but who knows what weird equipment you may end up having up there, and you'll still want a space heater, most likely.
I wouldn't put the kiln in the workspace, honestly. You could, but they put off a LOT of heat, and you'd basically be run out of the place after it was on for a few hours. I'd put it downstairs in the garage. Not quite as convenient, but you could still work while it fired. They usually run for 8-12 hours, and take 6-8 hours to cool down. If you use the space for clay, we need to have a serious talk about the drain trap for the sink. :)
I wouldn't put the kiln in the workspace, honestly. You could, but they put off a LOT of heat, and you'd basically be run out of the place after it was on for a few hours. I'd put it downstairs in the garage. Not quite as convenient, but you could still work while it fired. They usually run for 8-12 hours, and take 6-8 hours to cool down. If you use the space for clay, we need to have a serious talk about the drain trap for the sink. :)
General notes
Garage with hobby room
Place on lot
Lighting design
Skylight placement
ADT install
CCTV install
Select flooring
WiFi installation
Specify garage door openers
Specify windows
Utility Sink
Bathroom redesign
Hall Enginering
Zip System
I see new construction projects around here use ZIP SYSTEM sheathing for walls and roofs. The people who make TYVEK house wrap ( DuPont?) disagree. You will need to investigate.
Roof Pitch
The roof pitch of the main structure looks like your house at 6/12 and the back roof a shallow 3/12 and might benefit from an impervious layer under the standard asphalt shingles like I did on my greenhouse roof. No big deal to do with the new coated and taped joint system. In fact you will probably use the same system for the whole structure. I like the draftsman plan.
Jennifer, the reason this is important is that a portion of our garage room may not be very steep at all (referred to as something like 3/12 pitch).
When your roof is not as steep you have to me more careful about water and wind damage.
As a note to myself I'll read these two links discussing applying asphalt shingles to a low slope roof:Garage supports
Luke:
I'd avoid free-spanning the garage, if the builder wants to use I-joists. They seem like a great thing, but I much prefer a more traditional beam and joist type construction, which would require a post between the cars. I don't care what anyone tells you, long open spans like that flex annoyingly. If you do go with a post, space the doors an extra foot apart, to make it more convenient to open car doors in the middle. That 6" is nice to have, when there's a steel post to work around.
I'd avoid free-spanning the garage, if the builder wants to use I-joists. They seem like a great thing, but I much prefer a more traditional beam and joist type construction, which would require a post between the cars. I don't care what anyone tells you, long open spans like that flex annoyingly. If you do go with a post, space the doors an extra foot apart, to make it more convenient to open car doors in the middle. That 6" is nice to have, when there's a steel post to work around.
Yeah. The beam sounds better. Make a drawing of the garage floor plan and a drawing of each car and see where the support posts could be placed so the doors would open easily. I guess you would need an extra footing under each support post so they are not sitting on just the slab. So, if the original plans called for open span then a redraw might need to be done. What would the engineering look like? A center laminated beam with a support column at both ends and one or two posts spaced down the center of the garage? Do you have enough headroom for a 16 inch beam? If you carried the beam down the center all the way to the back of the building, it would block the headroom on the stairs. That beam would need a crane to place. How would it get down your drive? What is the cost of that 32 foot beam? Crane rental for the day? I would go back to I-beams or floor trusses. Why does it have to be so complicated? Why does the upper floor bump in? Could it just line up with the lower walls? Why give up space and complicate construction and increase cost?
Sounds like at first you were thinking beam sounds better, but on second thought I-beams are ok.
Garage HVAC
Heating. Jeanne really likes the Cadet Softheat units we have in the basement. So a single small unit in the storage area would work and a single longer unit in the studio under the window should do it. A wall heater in the bath. All heaters should be 220 of course. Cooling. The cooling feature of a heat pump would not be necessary and a sized AC in the studio would work.
I was just thinking for the garage roof/studio floor: ~5 inches of spray foam, which provides R30 – R32 insulation and completely seals the floor from air leaks.
David. If the budget allowed, I'd say go with a ductless split system heat pump, but that's probably a $4K purchase, and likely out of range. Only reason is noise. Window/wall A/C units are all loud as fuck, but they do work reasonably well.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2013/04/08/how-to-keep-a-garage-shop-toasty-warm
Garage insulation
Garage slab insulation should be important.
Here is a Fine Home Building piece:
http://www.finehomebuilding.
and
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2017/01/12/extra-insulation
Here are Ben's thoughts on the issue:
We put foam under our basement floor because we planned to use it for living space. We did not foam under our garage floor and it sweats and gets slippery in high humidity. Insulation. I'm impressed with a rock wool product called Rocksol (or something) for floor, wall and roof.
A combination of extra Roxul ComfortBoard IS and SmartBatt insulation gives the garage a comforting blanket.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2014/07/09/insulating-a-slab-on-grade
Here is a Fine Home Building piece:
http://www.finehomebuilding.
and
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2017/01/12/extra-insulation
Here are Ben's thoughts on the issue:
We put foam under our basement floor because we planned to use it for living space. We did not foam under our garage floor and it sweats and gets slippery in high humidity. Insulation. I'm impressed with a rock wool product called Rocksol (or something) for floor, wall and roof.
A combination of extra Roxul ComfortBoard IS and SmartBatt insulation gives the garage a comforting blanket.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2014/07/09/insulating-a-slab-on-grade
Architect provides preliminary plans
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